The Art Deco period (1920-1935) emerged as a response to the romance of Art Nouveau, favoring clean, angular shapes and bold colors. Influenced by Cubism, futurism, and ancient art styles, Art Deco celebrated progress and industrialization. Notable jewelry houses like Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., and Cartier emerged during this period. The era, known for its extravagance, initially used rare materials such as ebony, ivory, horn, mother of pearl, and platinum but adapted to common materials like steel and glass during the Great Depression. The style was characterized by strong geometric shapes, abstract patterns, and various global art influences, notably Ancient Egyptian motifs, following the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922.
While diamonds retained their position as the most coveted gemstone of the era, there emerged a trend towards a more contemporary aesthetic, incorporating materials like onyx, black enamel, and vibrant colored gemstones such as emerald, jade, coral, lapis lazuli, and turquoise. Platinum remained popular due to its flexibility and durability, while white gold emerged as a fashionable alternative. Moreover, advancements in metalworking and gemstone cutting facilitated the creation of intricate geometric motifs in jewelry. Die-cast machines allowed for the realization of elaborate filigree designs, and calibré cut stones were customized to complement the evolving trends in women’s fashion, which complimented shorter dresses and hairstyles.
*The image on the front page is an intricate Filigree necklace in white gold with citrine which can be found here: https://okoportland.com/products/antique-art-deco-10k-gold-filigree-citrine-necklace
An Art Deco engagement ring featuring platinum, ruby plaque, and a diamond positioned in a geometric design typical of the era which can be found here: https://www.farfetch.com/shopping/women/pragnell-vintage-1911-1940-platinum-art-deco-ruby-plaque-and-diamond-ring-item-16811989.aspx?lang=en-US&fsb=1&size=42&storeid=13333
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