The Art Nouveau era (1890-1910), translated from French as “new art,” emerged as a response to the dominance of classical styles of the 19th century. It aimed to elevate decorative arts to the same level as fine arts, emphasizing respect and reverence. While the era’s name was taken from the art gallery Maison de l’Art Nouveau in Paris, the movement originated in Britain, inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement led by William Morris following designs of the Victorian era thought to be excessive, Art Nouveau emerged, presenting a stark contrast to the prevailing Edwardian designs of the period.
Art Nouveau jewelry embraced themes of nature and femininity, portraying gentle, idealized women with flowing hair and charming faces, sexualized fantasy figures like mermaids or fairies, and even intimidating ones such as Medusa. These depictions reflected men’s conflicting perceptions of French women during that era. These designs of this era were a response to the ongoing struggle for women’s rights in France, as women sought education and employment outside the home, shaping the future of French society. Jewelers during this period, such as the renowned René Lalique designs, mostly used intricate patterns and colorful enamel instead of precious stones. The pieces that emerged from this period were loud, provocative, and expensive. Their association with affluence and fragility made Art Nouveau jewelry a passing trend, appreciated mostly by wealthy, artistic individuals.
*Featured image is a dragonfly-woman brooch made of Gold, enamel, chrysoprase, chalcedony, moonstones, and Diamonds designed by René Lalique.
https://nationaljeweler.com/articles/8804-the-history-behind-art-nouveau-jewelry
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