During the Edwardian period (1901-1909), arts and crafts boomed in Britain. The period was marked by opulence and leisure and embraced industrialization while favoring handcrafted artisan pieces over mass-produced jewelry. While pieces were still expensive and considered a luxury, the middle and working classes could buy simpler, more affordable versions, replacing materials like platinum with gold alloy. Plenty of notable jewelers rose to fame in this era, including Louis Cartier, who became the King’s official jeweler and whose legacy remains today.
Inspired by the romantic Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts movements, Edwardian jewelry featured feminine symbols like bows, lace, and garlands crafted in platinum and adorned with pale gemstones such as diamonds, pearls, aquamarines, amethysts, and opals. The period saw innovations in stone cutting technology, with cuts like baguette, marquise, and emerald emerging. Edwardian jewelry also drew inspiration from the 18th century and the Court of Versailles, resulting in intricate designs and milgrain detailing. Cluster engagement rings and lavalier pendant necklaces were popular, showcasing the era’s penchant for delicate yet sumptuous pieces. Additionally, the suffragette movement influenced the period’s designs, with some pieces incorporating green, white, and violet stones as symbols of women’s rights. With the onset of World War I in 1914, the demand for gems waned, marking the end of the Edwardian era and the beginning of the Art Deco period.
*Image is of an Edwardian natural ceylon yellow sapphire pendant surrounded by with bow and leaf motifs.
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